Legion Glaive

Finished Photos

Construction & Painting

The last super heavy I had to build & paint was the Legion Glaive. I bought this kit a year or so back and thus had it all ready to go.




The front of this was heavily weathered with smoke, jet engine, ash & dark earth powders to get the burnt effect


Building / Modifing

After reading over the rules for the Volkite Carronade and its rather disappointing range I decided that the twin linked heavy flamers would be a better choice. With that in mind I then had a new dilemma, what flamers in my bits box would do this tank justice.

The critreia I had for these flamers needed to comply with the following points… 1 they had to fit the turret space without being oddly sized. 2 they had to look like they belong on a heresy era tank.
Having built the deredo dreadnought (yet to be posted)  I had two heavy flamers ready to go and after a quick dry fit I found them to be perfectly sized and they suited it like they were designed for it.

See photos above to see it fitted, painted and weathered.

Further modifications were on the back end specifically the fuel tanks. I’m not a fan of the 44 gallon drums and prefer the look of armored fuel tanks that could take a hit from a small arms fire and fit more volume than 4 drums.
They were bought from the Blood and Skulls Industry Ebay Store the seller goes by the name machinator24. There’s a lot of modifications required to get them to fit the space marine super heavies properly as they were not designed with these tanks in mind, so if you want to do the same sort of mods be prepared to cut and carve.


As with all my large models i like to foam fill the internal cavities with space filler. I like this because it fills the internal void sections with a sticky expandable substance that then sets in about 30minutes and sticks to the internal walls giving the whole model extra strength without adding more than a few grams of weight.
To foam fill the large tanks with rotating turrents i need to modify baseplate hole that houses the turrent. I use PVC polly pipe that is gauged pretty close to the diameter of the baseplate. There is a little bit of dremel work that needs to be done to get a snug fit and then some more on the turrent to make sure it rotates freely. This works out really well as i don’t like having a lot of slack in the joint  and by doing this i can close the gap and tighten the slack.

I normally leave the engine compartment unattached as its easier to foam fill from the back end and then seal it up when the foam has risen close to that point. One thing to remember about using this stuff is that you need to make sure all the holes are plugged or else you will get sticky foam pressing through the kit. Also use a little at a time and wait for it to expand as to much might have a detrimental effect on the model and break the glue binding it together.

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